Ice Bath Chiller Running Cost Calculator: Cost a Day
A chiller does not burn electricity because the water is cold; it burns it because heat keeps leaking in. Once the tub is down to temperature, the running cost is set by three things: how warm the air around the tub is, how well the walls and lid are insulated, and how efficient the chiller is. Enter your tub, your insulation and the numbers off your chiller's spec sheet, and this calculator works out the daily, monthly and yearly cost, plus how many hours a day the compressor actually runs. The key insight: on a thin, uninsulated tub, adding 25 mm of foam and a proper lid usually cuts the holding cost by far more than buying a more efficient chiller would.
Your ice bath and chiller
The tub
Use 0 for a single-skin plastic, steel or acrylic tub. Inflatable drop-stitch pods sit somewhere between bare plastic and thin foam; try 10 to 15 mm. The lid is assumed to be closed between plunges.
Temperatures
Use the 24-hour average for the month, not the afternoon high. A tub in a heated room sees the room temperature all year.
The chiller (from its spec sheet)
If the sheet gives capacity in BTU/hr, divide by 3.412 to get watts. Spec-sheet capacity is often measured with warmer water than an ice bath, so real efficiency at 3 to 5°C is usually a little lower than these figures suggest.
Leave at 0 if the pump only runs when the compressor does. A pump that runs 24 hours costs you twice: its own electricity, and the heat it puts into the water.
Water changes and tariff
Take the unit rate from your latest bill or app; standing charges are not included because you pay them anyway.
How the calculation works
Holding the water cold is a heat-leak problem. The calculator works out the outside surface area of the tub (walls, floor and lid), then a heat-transfer coefficient for the walls from the foam thickness, using a conductivity of 0.025 W/m·K for rigid polyurethane-type foam plus the resistance of the still air layer on the outside. Multiply area by that coefficient and by the gap between air and water temperature and you get the watts of heat creeping in. Any pump running all day adds its full wattage on top, because almost all of a pump's power ends up as heat in the water.
The chiller has to pump that heat back out. Its efficiency is the ratio of cooling capacity to power draw, so a unit that removes 1,200 W of heat while drawing 600 W uses 1 kWh of electricity for every 2 kWh of heat it shifts. Dividing the daily heat load by the cooling capacity gives the hours the compressor runs each day. Each water change adds a one-off pull-down: cooling 1 litre by 1°C means removing about 1.16 Wh of heat, the same figure our chiller size calculator uses.
What the number leaves out
Treat the answer as the floor rather than the ceiling. It assumes the lid stays shut between plunges and the tub sits in shade. Direct sun on a dark lid, a lid left off for an hour, and your own body heat during each plunge all add load the formula cannot see. Leaky lid seals matter too, because cold water evaporating under a gap carries heat in with the moist air.
It also explains why chiller bills are seasonal. In a British winter the air around an outdoor tub is often close to, or below, the water temperature you want, so the compressor barely runs; the same setup on a warm summer night can cost several times as much. Run the calculator once with a winter average and once with a summer one to see your range. If the water change is the biggest line, the ice bath chlorine calculator can help you keep the water clean for longer between refills.
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